Straightening your shanks

what follows are extracts that I've sent to the American Stickmakers Association

Well it's not my design but here goes, first if you're familiar with Mike Dunbar's steamer then you know what I'm going to write. Basically it's a pipe ( heavy pvc 4" underground drainage pipe) with screw on ends. Make the pipe longer than you need i.e.. 7' that way you can fit oversize staffs in. In one end of the pipe (screw cap) drill a hole 6 mm (sorry I work in metric). In the other end fit a brass connector so that you can attach a steam wallpaper stripper to it. We found that you need to brace the pipe with timber along it's length to stop it sagging when hot. You also will need to either have it on a slight incline or tip out the water occasionally. That's the basic idea, Mikes' is slightly different. He has his steam in the centre and has bars inside to lift the wood above any water.

So you've made your steamer, now the fun starts, you need to leave the shanks in the box for at least 15 mins depending on thickness. Wood must be seasoned (do not use salt and pepper!!!). You have about 45 seconds of pliability so move quickly. We have a straightening jig, (much like Micks' knees) two 4" wheels, shaped like old fashioned cotton reels, with rubber on them to protect the shank. These are fixed to a sturdy plank about 2" apart so the shank goes between them and then you can tweak shank left or right to straighten it. Or do it over your knee, But in either case wear gloves as they get hot!

For those amongst you that cannot make or afford to make a steamer for the purpose of bending canes, try this. Use a hot air gun, the paint stripper type and gently warm the area to bend, after a few minutes playing the heat on the shank (being careful not to scorch the stick) it will become pliable. You can then bend the cane to suit your needs, although I wouldn't suggest you could bend a handle like this. This method is great on finished sticks that have warped in central heated homes.